View, Print, and Back Up Your Drivers

By Rick Broida, PCWorld

Documents? Check. Photo and music libraries? Check. Drivers? Better double-check. Even if you're religious about backing up important data, I'll wager you never thought to back up all your drivers.
That's an oversight. After all, if your system ever suffers a major meltdown, you'll need mouse, printer, video, and other drivers to get everything up and running again. And take it from me: driver discs always go missing when you need them the most.

Double Driver 4.0 makes fast and easy work of saving all your drivers. The utility scans your system, automatically detects and selects those drivers that aren't native (i.e. part of the operating system), and lets you back them up to any kind of storage: a USB drive, a network folder, etc.

I particularly like the choice of output options. You can save the drivers in a structured folder (meaning each driver gets its own sub-folder), a compressed folder (good if you're saving to, say, a space-challenged flash drive), or a self-executable file (which will automatically restore every driver when you run it).

Double Driver also lets you print a list of your installed drivers and/or save the list as a text file. Both could come in mighty handy if you ever lose the backup itself.

What I like best about Double Driver, apart from it being free, is that it's a portable application. There's nothing to install; it can run just as easily from a flash drive as it can from your desktop.
Ultimately, this is one of those must-have (and must-use) utilities. Take three minutes and make a driver backup. The system you save could be your own.

 

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Back Up, Restore, and Migrate Firefox

By Lincoln Spector, PCWorld

With all its settings and add-ins, Firefox is a wonderfully configurable browser. Yet there's no obvious way to backup any of those configurations, or to move them to a new computer. There isn't even a clear way to save your bookmarks.

While there isn't a clear way, there is a reasonably easy one. You just have to know how. The trick is to back up one particular folder. I can't tell you the name of that folder, because the name is different on your computer than on mine, but I can tell you how to find it:

First, close Firefox. Doing this while the browser is running will be disastrous.

Once it's closed, select Start, then Run, type %appdata% (with the percentage signs) and press ENTER. Navigate the resulting Windows Explorer window to Mozilla\Firefox\Profiles (in other words, open the Mozilla folder inside your current location, then the Firefox folder inside that, and so on).

Now that you're in the Profiles folder, you'll see another folder with a random name and the extension .default--something like 4hw0enat.default. That's what you have to back up--that folder and all the files and folders inside it. Copy it to a safe location.

Here's how to restore it after you've bought a new PC or reinstalled Windows:

First, you'll have to install, run, and close Firefox on your new or newly setup PC. Then use the instructions above to find your new Firefox installation's Profiles folder. Copy your old .default folder from the backup into that new Profiles folder.

You'll now have two .default folders in Profiles. With the one you just copied selected, press F2to rename it, CTRL-C to copy the name, then ESC to not rename it, after all.

Move up the folder tree to the containing folder, which is called Firefox. Double-click the profiles.ini (Configuration Settings) file to open it in Notepad.

The last line of this file begins with Path=Profiles/. Select the rest of that line (everything to the right of the slash), and press CTRL-v to insert the name of your restored folder. Save the file, then open Firefox and everything should come up the way you want it.

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Reboot System Restore

By Lincoln Spector, PCWorld  

David Nelson wants to know if it's a good idea to delete all of his system restore points and start fresh.

It's occasionally a good idea, but losing all of your past restore points has considerable risks. Should you decide, tomorrow, that you need to restore Windows to where it was the day before yesterday, you'll be out of luck.

You can't delete individual restore points because no single one is a self-contained whole. To save disk space, System Restore saves only changes made since the previous restore point was created. If Windows creates a new restore point every day, and you tell it on Friday to restore back to Monday, it must successfully restore the points from Thursday, Wednesday, and Tuesday before it can reach Monday's. If Thursday's restore point is corrupt, you can't get to Wednesday's.

If System Restore is failing to restore your system, starting fresh may be your best option. At least future restore points will work.

It's also a good idea after cleaning up malware. Otherwise, you might accidentally reinfect your PC by restoring the wrong point.


To refresh System Restore in XP, click Start, then run, type sysdm.cpl, and press ENTER. Click the System Restore tab.

Check Turn off System Restore and click Apply, then Yes. After the long wait is over and you can access that dialog box again, uncheck Turn off System Restore and click OK.

In Vista, click Start, type sysdm.cpl, and press ENTER. Click the System Protection tab.

Uncheck all available disks, and confirm that you want to Turn System Restore Off. Click Apply.

After waiting, recheck the box next to C:, and then click Apply again.

For Windows 7, click Start, type sysdm.cpl, and press ENTER.

Click the System Protection tab. Select your C: drive and click the Configure button. Select Turn off system protection and click Apply.

After Windows finishes processing this command, select Restore system settings and previous versions of files and click OK.

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How To Roll Back a Bad Driver

By Christopher Null, PCWorld

Updating your machine's drivers keeps the system current on bug fixes and support for new features. It can also break things that weren't broken, however, so if you notice that your PC is crashing or behaving strangely after applying a new patch, you should revert to an older version and see if that fixes the problem. Fortunately, whether you install new drivers manually (via download from a manufacturer's Website) or through Windows Update, you can revert to an older version fairly easily.

  1. Open the Device Manager control panel.
  2. Browse to the device whose driver you want to roll back. Double-click the device in question.
  3. On the properties screen, click the Driver tab, then click Roll Back Driver and follow the wizard to revert to the previously loaded driver. A restart will be required.
If the option is grayed out, an older driver is not available. If you know that the driver has been updated, you may be able to recover it by using Windows' System Restore function, which will also undo driver installations.

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How to Update Your BIOS

By Patrick Miller, PCWorld

Your computer's BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) is the first software your PC loads. It sets the stage for your operating system, so to speak, by finding all your PC's various hardware components and letting the operating system know it can use them.

As with any software, your computer or motherboard manufacturer periodically updates the BIOS to fix bugs, add compatibility with new devices, improve caching functions, and make several other hardware tweaks that can speed up your boot time and fix annoying issues. These updates are available at the manufacturer's site. But if you make a mistake in the update process, you risk rendering your PC unbootable. Here's how to make sure your BIOS update goes without a hitch.

Step 1: Identify your current BIOS version.

 The easiest way to find your BIOS version is to open up the System Information app in Windows--just type msinfo32 into the search bar (for Windows 7/Vista) or the Run box (XP), and click System Summary; your BIOS version should now show up on the right under your processor speed. Record your version number (and the date that appears afterwards, if applicable).

Step 2: Check your PC/motherboard manufacturer's Website for BIOS updates.

Most PC manufacturers handle BIOS updates based on your specific line and model, so head over to your manufacturer's support page and check its listings for your PC, because if you download and install a BIOS intended for a different model, your PC probably won't work (although most BIOS updaters are smart enough to notice if you try to install them on the wrong hardware). If there is a BIOS update file available, grab it--along with any documentation it comes with, because often warnings and specific instructions are contained in the Read Me docs.

Those of you who assembled your PC yourself will need to look for BIOS updates from your motherboard manufacturer's Website. If you don't remember your motherboard's model number, you can look it up without opening up the case by downloading and running CPU-Z and clicking on the Mainboard tab.

Step 3: Read the included documentation.

Your PC's BIOS handles a lot of the nuts and bolts.The BIOS updater's Read Me file will most likely include a list of fixes and new functions, often to support new hardware. Updating the BIOS for my Lenovo Thinkpad T500, for example, added support for a new AC adapter and a 1600-by-900-pixel screen resolution on an external monitor; the update also fixed fan speed and Webcam issues that could not have been handled by updating Windows or my specific device driver software.

More important, however, were these notes in the Read Me file: If I was running Vista on my T500, I'd need to make sure that I had a certain patch installed; and if my T500 had a certain graphics card, I would need to update its drivers above a certain version before updating my BIOS. Read and reread your docs, or you might make your PC unable to boot without even knowing why.

Step 4: Update your BIOS.

Most newer PCs have a fairly easy BIOS update procedure: Just download the .exe file from your PC manufacturer's Website, quit all open programs, run the .exe, and let it handle the patch; then reboot. If your PC suddenly shuts down in the middle of the BIOS update, you won't be able to boot up, so make sure you're not running off a laptop battery. Ideally, you're plugged into an uninterruptible power supply (UPS), especially if you're in an area prone to blackouts.

Older PCs, however, might require you to set up your own bootable disk to update the BIOS yourself. You might still be able to download an app that configures a USB thumb drive, blank CD/DVD, or even a floppy disk so that you can boot off of it to update the BIOS, or an ISO image file that can be used in your disc-burning app of choice (if you don't have such an app, try ISO Recorder for Windows XP or the version for Windows 7/Vista) to create a BIOS update CD.

Other systems will have you copy a few files to your bootable disk, restart, and open up the BIOS during startup (typically by pressing a specified key for setup options), and change the boot order so your system looks for a bootable USB drive or CD before loading the OS from your hard drive.


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Reinstall Windows Without Losing Your Data

By Lincoln Spector, PCWorld 

How did things get this messed up? Windows has slowed to a crawl. Programs won't run. The free firewall you installed last year won't update or uninstall itself.

System Restore hasn't helped; neither have your assorted cleanup and antimalware programs. Only one option remains: Reinstall Windows and start from scratch.

I'm not going to lie to you--this is a scary and time-consuming job. Your PC may be unusable for a day or more. You could even lose all of your data.

And let's face it: You'd be wise to avoid this chore if at all possible. If someone in tech support tells you to do it, get a second opinion, and then a third.

If you have to reinstall--and sometimes it is necessary--here's how to make the process as safe and painless as possible.

Gather What You Need

You'll have to collect a few things before you can begin.

First, you'll need your recovery tool. What's that? If you're using the version of Windows that came on your PC, it's probably in a hidden partition on the computer's hard drive. That partition contains the information necessary to restore the hard drive to its factory condition.

Obviously, a hard-drive partition is not something you have to gather. But if your PC is a few years old, the recovery tool may be on one or more CDs or DVDs instead. Find the discs that came with your PC and see if anything looks promising. Alternatively, check the PC's manual to learn what kind of recovery tool came with the machine, and, if it's on a partition, how to access it.

If you upgraded Windows since you bought the PC--for instance, going from XP or Vista to Windows 7--the upgrade disc is now your recovery tool.

If you can't find a recovery disc, and the PC has no hidden partition (or offers no workable way to access that partition), contact the system manufacturer to see what they can do for you. Read "How Do I Restore Windows If I've Lost My Restore CD?" for details.

After Windows installs, you'll have to reinstall all of your programs. Collect all the original discs or downloaded installation files, and all of your license numbers.

You'll want an empty external hard drive with a capacity at least as large as your existing hard drive. Another external hard drive will come in handy later. That one doesn't have to be empty; you'll need only a part of it.

Finally, you'll need time. The best-case scenario for a reinstall is a day. The worst case: three or four days. You'll be spending a lot of that time waiting, so get a good book, too.

Back Up Everything

Things could go horribly wrong, so you need to make a backup of your entire drive. That way, you can at least return to where you were before the reinstall.

You also have to create a backup of your data, because the reinstall might destroy everything on your hard drive.

To manage both tasks, use cloning software to turn the empty external drive into an exact copy of your internal hard drive. I recommend EASEUS Todo Backup, which performs both image backups and cloning. For this job, I recommend the cloning because it will make the later job of restoring the data files easier. On the other hand, an image backup doesn't require an external drive all to itself (although it will require a large piece of one). Either option will work.

Be sure to create an emergency boot disc with EASEUS or whatever program you use to do the cloning. Without that, you may not be able to recover from a disaster.

Having a second backup of your data wouldn't hurt, especially since you're about to erase the original. If you don't already have another up-to-date backup, create one with whatever backup program you regularly use.

The Windows Reinstall

Exactly how you replace an old Windows installation with a new one depends on your recovery tool. If your PC came with a recovery partition on the hard drive, find the instructions for booting into the repair environment. Watch the screen as you turn on the computer; it might show a message such as 'Press F10 for Repair'. If it doesn't, check the manual or call technical support.

If your recovery tool is a disc, boot the PC from it.

Either way, follow the prompts.

If your recovery tool is an actual Microsoft Windows disc, the tool will ask what kind of installation to perform. You want the kind that gives you a fresh version of Windows. For Windows 7 or Vista, when the wizard asks about the type of installation, select the Custom (advanced) option. For XP, at the 'Welcome to Setup' screen, press Enter to Continue, not R for Repair.

Setting Up Windows

Congratulations: You have a fresh Windows installation. Now the hard work starts.
Remember that Windows will need updating. The patching will happen automatically, but if you want to get it out of the way, launch Windows Update and take care of it.

You'll have to reinstall at least some of your drivers. You can go back to the discs that came with your PC, printer, scanner, and so on, or you can download newer versions off the Internet. Alternatively, you can install the drivers off the clone you made before reinstalling.

If you reinstalled Windows from a vendor-supplied tool--one that returns your hard drive to its factory condition--you probably have a lot of junk on your computer. You'll have to uninstall the stuff you don't want.

The uninstallers that come with Windows applications are notoriously sloppy, leaving all sorts of remnants behind. I recommend either Revo Uninstaller or Total Uninstall. These programs run the application's own uninstaller, and then clean up the remaining mess.

The difference? Revo is free, but Total does a better job with uninstalls that require a reboot. Also, Revo doesn't work with 64-bit programs, while Total does.

Now that you've cleaned Windows of unwanted applications, you have to reinstall the programs you do want. Start with your security tools, and go from there. Don't try to install two programs at the same time, and if an installation requires a reboot, don't put that reboot off. Just do it.

Once everything is installed, take some time to make Windows your own. Pick your wallpaper, change your power and screensaver settings, and so on.

One More Backup

You just spent a lot of time taking a fresh Windows installation and customizing it. If you ever have to reinstall Windows again, wouldn't you like to skip that step?

Use image-backup software and an external hard drive to create an image of your hard drive in its current everything-but-data state. Should you have to reinstall again, you can use this backup as your recovery tool and simplify the process.

Again, I recommend EASEUS Todo Backup, although you can find other good programs that will do this job.

Whatever program you use, make sure to create an emergency boot disc with it.

Restore Your Data

Now it's time to bring back your data. If you used an actual Windows 7 retail or upgrade DVD, the data is in a folder called C:\Windows.old. If you used a manufacturer's recovery tool, your files might be in a special folder off the root, perhaps called C:\Backup. Otherwise, your data is no longer on your hard drive.

Aren't you glad you made that backup?

If such a folder exists on your hard drive, open it in Windows Explorer and navigate to its User folder (Windows 7 or Vista) or 'Documents and Settings' folder (XP).

If the folder doesn't exist, you'll have to get it off of the clone or image backup. Create a folder on the internal drive called Backup (it should be C:\Backup). Plug in the external drive with the clone, and copy the contents of that drive's User folder (Windows 7 or Vista) or 'Documents and Settings' folder (XP) to C:\Backup. Once the copying is done, remove the external drive (properly, of course, through the system tray's removal tool). Leave Windows Explorer open to the C:\Backup folder.

Whether you needed to copy the data from the external drive or not, you should now have a Windows Explorer window open and displaying multiple folders--one for each user logon. For convenience's sake, I'm going to call this window the Backup Location.

Open a second Windows Explorer window, and navigate to C:\Users (Windows 7 or Vista) or C:\Documents and Settings (XP). I'll call this window the Proper Location, because it's where your data should be--and eventually will be.

Do the following for each user:

Open the user's folders in both the Backup and Proper Locations. You will see additional folders, mostly the same ones, inside each. Drag some of the folders from Backup to Proper.

Which folders should you move? The obvious ones are Documents, Music, Pictures, and Videos. Their names may or may not be prefaced with My. XP users needn't worry about the lack of Music, Pictures, and Videos folders--they're inside Documents.

You should absolutely not move AppData (Windows 7 and Vista) or 'Application Data and Local Settings' (XP). These folders are hidden, so it's likely you won't see them, anyway.

Use your own judgment about other folders. Just remember that the folders you don't move aren't going away immediately, so you can always correct that mistake.

You'll get several error messages as you move the folders. If Windows asks, yes, you do want to merge folders. Replacing a file with one that has the same name is also probably safe, but use your own judgment.

That process will take care of your documents, spreadsheets, pictures, music, and so on. Application data (Firefox settings, Outlook data files, and the like) is more complicated. Each application has its own way of handling the task, so I can give you no general instructions.


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How to Enable Safe Mode in Windows 7

By Michael King, PCWorld 

Computers are complex and delicate machines, with millions of lines of computer code manipulating millions of transistors just to bring you to your desktop! It's not surprising, then, that things can sometimes go terribly wrong while you're updating your BIOS, downloading new drivers, or just surfing the Web. But that doesn't mean you have to throw away this incredibly complex (and sometimes incredibly expensive) device and replace it with a new one.

When a computer goes haywire and the operating system has trouble starting or reaching the desktop, the problem often involves misconfigured recently installed software or drivers (special software that communicates with your hardware). The installation may go smoothly--but when you reboot the system, you start getting errors. If you can't get to the desktop, you can't uninstall the bad program or drivers, and you may feel trapped.

Luckily, Microsoft has included a tool within Windows called Safe Mode to help you get around (and hopefully out of) this problem. It's a bare-bones version of your Windows operating system that includes only the basic drivers needed to boot your system safely to the desktop without any settings or problematic software interfering. Once there, you can troubleshoot further, to eliminate the problem and boot the system normally again.

To get to Safe Mode, take these steps:

1. Turn on (or reboot) your computer.You can find Safe Mode in your Advanced Boot Options menu.
2. Wait for the computer to initialize the hardware and prepare to load the operating system.
3. Press and hold the F8 key while you wait for the Windows logo to appear. if the Windows logo appears or if the operating system begins to load, you may need to restart the computer and try again.
4.The Advanced Boot Options screen for Windows will appear. Use the arrow keys on your keyboard to select Safe Mode, and press Return.
5. If you need access to the Internet or network while in Safe Mode, select Safe Mode with Networking.
6. Windows will boot into Safe Mode. When the desktop appears, it will display 'Safe Mode' in all four corners to let you know that you're in this special mode.
7. When you're finished, click Start, Shut Down, Restart to reboot your computer as you normally would.
8. If the problem still prevents you from getting to the desktop, you may need to go back into Safe Mode or try something more drastic.

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Double Driver

Note: This review addresses v4.0 of the software.

Even if you're religious about backing up important data, I'll wager you never thought to back up all your drivers. That's a worrisome oversight. After all, if your system ever suffers a major meltdown, you'll need mouse, printer, video, and other drivers to get everything up and running again. And take it from me: driver discs always go missing when you need them the most.

Double Driver 4.0 makes fast and easy work of saving all your drivers. The utility scans your system, automatically detects and selects those drivers that aren't native (i.e. part of the operating system), and lets you back them up to any kind of storage: a USB drive, a network folder, etc.

I particularly like the choice of output options. You can save the drivers in a structured folder (meaning each driver gets its own sub-folder), a compressed folder (good if you're saving to, say, a space-challenged flash drive), or a self-executable file (which will automatically restore every driver when you run it).

Double Driver also lets you print a list of your installed drivers and/or save the list as a text file. Both could come in mighty handy if you ever lose the backup itself.

What I like best about Double Driver, apart from it being free, is that it's a portable application. There's nothing to install; it can run just as easily from a flash drive as it can from your desktop.
Ultimately, this is one of those must-have (and must-use) utilities. Take three minutes and make a driver backup. The system you save could be your own.

Note: This program is donationware. It is free to try, but the author accepts and encourages donations towards further development.

  • Version: 4.1.0
  • Downloads Count: 56,394
  • License Type: Free
  • Price: Free
  • Date Added: Feb 3, 2011
  • Operating Systems: Microsoft Windows XP, Microsoft Windows Vista, Microsoft Windows 7
  • Requirements: 32-bit or 64-bit OS
  • File Size: 2.115 MB
  • Author: BooZet Freeware
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